Converting Zetec S to throttle bodies?

[steeldonkey]

Home brew supercharger? Steeldonkey can tell you all about his golf

Certainly could be done, i was thinking that these online 3d printers could open up an easy way of making up charger inlets and such. only thing i would say is that the 2e is quite low comp where as i would think that the engine here is not.

Similarly though I fitted up ITB's to my old 318is and was up and running for under £300 but its a cost VS effort type affair.

Cheap charger here if your interested:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/eaton-superch ... 4ab909370a

Would never use my golf as an example of how to do it though went ok but was ghetto as fcuk

[bougourd]

what kind of power u after and whats ur budget? this is an area ive researched heavily lol. which zs is urs?

[score1_uk]

Not to sure what power. Just wanting to know what my options are. Its a mk5 ZS.

[JayJay]

I think the best options are intake, exhaust and cams with a tune; the basic starting blocks. ITBs are really there once the rest of the engine is maxxed out and the intake is the weak point (unless the tune is very good and the engine can really make use of the ITBs you're more likely to lose useable power, on a standard engine they really are overkill).

Once you've done the intake/exhaust/cams the next option might be pistons and the rest of the valvetrain before even thinking of ITBs. Other options might be to remove unused or unwanted ancilliaries, I know on the H22 in my Prelude a common 'non-engine' change is the balance shaft belt removal (as it steals a small amount of power from the crankshaft), but as a road car you may not want to go down this route.

There are many other upgrades that may not necessarily increase the power, just make it more useable. For example I had a lighter flywheel and a stronger clutch fitted which made a massive difference to the car, it's revs and accelerates more freely and with a shortshifter fitted shifting time is reduced. This means I can gear quicker as I accelerate, so the car hasn't got more power but I do move faster as I'm not faffing about changing gears or waiting for the (very) heavy flywheel to do it's work.

I've watched quite a few people building up their Preludes as track cars, and in every one increasing the useable power and handling has come before doing any work on the engine. Before even thinking of having all this work done I'd recommend looking in to a good suspension setup for example polybushing (or replacing any worn bushes) and adjustable coilovers, both which made a massive difference when I had mine done, and increasing the useable power as much as possible before increasing the total power.

Don't forget, with increased engine power you're going to want increased stopping power! The brakes may need an upgrade (I really don't know the car so I can't say for sure).

[score1_uk]

yeah, breaks feel week as is.

[warby]

I would spend money on the footwork, along the lines of good tyres, bushes, coilovers, arbs and brakes. Followed by the above cams, intake, exhasut, map, fly etc. Should make a good difference, then look into bodies, headwork and he like once that setup bores you.

[man83g]

I always thought lightening the flywheel was considered a bit of a waste of time?? Less torque produced as the rotating mass is lowered?? Yes the engine will rev a bit faster but don't you loose the ability to use engine breaking?? I could well be wrong about that but I'm sure I read it somewhere... Also unless you are actually going to do the clutch its going to cost a lot to get the gearbox out to get the flywheel off to lighten it.
A few breathing mods, ie, exhaust and filter and a remap. Then braided lines, decent brake fluid and some decent discs and pads will do to start.
Also, I don't think I'd bother with carbs at all, expensive and a pain to keep running correctly in my opinion! Don't they have to be kept balanced correctly to be of any use??? Lovely noise though...

[JayJay]

Getting a lighter flywheel made a massive difference, and no I still use engine braking And no, no torque is lost.

Also yes, I'd recommend having the flywheel and clutch done together!

[steeldonkey]

I always thought lightening the flywheel was considered a bit of a waste of time?? Less torque produced as the rotating mass is lowered?? Yes the engine will rev a bit faster but don't you loose the ability to use engine breaking?? I could well be wrong about that but I'm sure I read it somewhere... Also unless you are actually going to do the clutch its going to cost a lot to get the gearbox out to get the flywheel off to lighten it.
A few breathing mods, ie, exhaust and filter and a remap. Then braided lines, decent brake fluid and some decent discs and pads will do to start.
Also, I don't think I'd bother with carbs at all, expensive and a pain to keep running correctly in my opinion! Don't they have to be kept balanced correctly to be of any use??? Lovely noise though...

A lighter fly wheel does make the car go better, and generaly there are no huge downsides, you can get a good bit of layshaft rattle from the box though.
Here are the flywheel calcs for an e36 m3
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywheel/f ... _calcs.pdf

ITB's are not carbs, they are independant throttle bodies, generally they come into their own when your running agressive duration cams they retain the injectors but put individual throttle plates upto the inlet ports so increase response and increase the flow available to the head, providing the head can use it, but in cases where the inlet is pulse tuned they can loose torque, its all fdown to the setup, generally they are maintainance free. (standard fit to all M cars).

If you just want to go faster for no money then reducing the effective gear ratio's it the single cheapest possible way.

[score1_uk]

Hummm, 2 interesting ideas there. would converting to carbs make any difference? and how do I alter the gearing?