Advice for buying a used car privately

[Scoobyman]

If i was you i'd buy 1 of these!

http://manxads.com/?Title=Peugeot-106-x ... ngId=43336

http://manxads.com/?Title=95-Civic-eg6- ... Category=1

[Nitro]

^^^^^^^^

Have to agree both very nice cars and will be quick, but not ideal if its a first car.....

[OoMBoyoO]

Yes, buying a used car is a real stress!

As for Citroen Saxo VTRs, most will have had a hard life honestly, barring a few of the girly coloured ones (and even then its debatable!). They are getting to the age where head gaskets go and cambelts need changing at the very least. Always find out when the cambelt was last done and see the invoice. Have a good look through the service history full stop. If the last service was much over a year (or 6,000 miles ago), it would ring alarm bells with me.

You would be right to go for the facelifted example, it has an extra 8 BHP. Interiors are bland but seem to wear well. Rust shouldn't really be much of an issue, though I doubt you'd be keeping a Saxo VTR for it's future classic status regardless.

It would be wise to check fluid levels on examples you look at, reservoir, brake and oil being crucial and have a good listen to the engine with the bonnet up. The engines shouldn't sound too tappety. Have a look underneath for fluid droplets or pools indicating leaks. If you can have a good look underneath have a scan for corrosion or holes in the floor plan (at this age, the car should be ok ish though).

On the test drive you'll want to see that the engine revs cleanly in every gear....and that the gear changes are smooth and there are no synchromesh issues or clunks. A very high biting point on the clutch or clutch slippage would likely indicate an imminent clutch replacement. Keep an eye on the water temp gauge towards the end of your test drive, it shouldn't end up high.

You'll know on a straight above 70mph if the steering geometry is out if there is any juddering or if the car pulls one way or the other with loose hands on the wheel. If the car feels slack and bouncy over bumps (Manx roads generally), it could indicate that the shocks could do with replacing. Saxo's are normally firm over bumps.

Test the brakes too with a couple of decent stops, again look for pulling to the left or right. Saxo's weigh next to nothing so they should stop pretty well. It would be wise to have a look at the discs and pads if you can.

Have a good look at every body panel, so many Saxos get crashed and have poor matching respray work.

I'd avoid modified examples, however most will have an aftermarket air filter and/or aftermarket exhaust......but I'd avoid anything else.

Other than that, just check the electrics work.

Also, don't automatically think that the most expensive Saxo will be the best. Look at every one for sale locally before making your mind up.......and don't just buy the first you see, its easy to fall in love on a test drive and then miss a better and possibly cheaper example.

When you find the car you like it is usual to barter a bit. On a car for sale for £1,500.....most sellers will probably accept £1,250 cash (especially if you have it on you!) But at the very least have a friend or family member with you to offer an objective view and keep you sane, especially if you have cash on you. Never appear to be too excited or giggly, if the seller thinks he is getting a sure sale it will affect your bartering.

A few umms and arrs, a couple of scratches/dints pointed out, kerbed alloys or low treaded tyres or a dirty interior are all bargaining points.

If you agree on a price you both need to keep handwritten receipts stating that you have bought the vehicle (numberplate) and the price, names, contact numbers and signatures. The seller needs to sign that they have received payment in full.

If you are paying part cash and part bank transfer or with a cash balance the next day, you need a receipt for this as well as the log book. Most sellers will not let their car go without full payment received......but if you have left cash, you should be entitled to take the log book.

I didn't intend to do such a long post! I hate buying and selling cars........

Thanks!! Thats a great reply! Exactly what I needed!!

[OoMBoyoO]

I'd say judging by this post its going to be your first car?

If it is i thought the same way when I first passed, but after a certain age (10 years for most cars)/mileage (over 100k), they're automatically worth between £200-£500 anyway.

VTR's are two a penny, spare parts are easy to get hold of, buy a £300 nail, at least you'll have some spare parts for when you find a decent one.

No, 2nd car, Ive been driving for about 15 months

[jamie]

Yes, buying a used car is a real stress!

As for Citroen Saxo VTRs, most will have had a hard life honestly, barring a few of the girly coloured ones (and even then its debatable!). They are getting to the age where head gaskets go and cambelts need changing at the very least. Always find out when the cambelt was last done and see the invoice. Have a good look through the service history full stop. If the last service was much over a year (or 6,000 miles ago), it would ring alarm bells with me.

You would be right to go for the facelifted example, it has an extra 8 BHP. Interiors are bland but seem to wear well. Rust shouldn't really be much of an issue, though I doubt you'd be keeping a Saxo VTR for it's future classic status regardless.

It would be wise to check fluid levels on examples you look at, reservoir, brake and oil being crucial and have a good listen to the engine with the bonnet up. The engines shouldn't sound too tappety. Have a look underneath for fluid droplets or pools indicating leaks. If you can have a good look underneath have a scan for corrosion or holes in the floor plan (at this age, the car should be ok ish though).

On the test drive you'll want to see that the engine revs cleanly in every gear....and that the gear changes are smooth and there are no synchromesh issues or clunks. A very high biting point on the clutch or clutch slippage would likely indicate an imminent clutch replacement. Keep an eye on the water temp gauge towards the end of your test drive, it shouldn't end up high.

You'll know on a straight above 70mph if the steering geometry is out if there is any juddering or if the car pulls one way or the other with loose hands on the wheel. If the car feels slack and bouncy over bumps (Manx roads generally), it could indicate that the shocks could do with replacing. Saxo's are normally firm over bumps.

Test the brakes too with a couple of decent stops, again look for pulling to the left or right. Saxo's weigh next to nothing so they should stop pretty well. It would be wise to have a look at the discs and pads if you can.

Have a good look at every body panel, so many Saxos get crashed and have poor matching respray work.

I'd avoid modified examples, however most will have an aftermarket air filter and/or aftermarket exhaust......but I'd avoid anything else.

Other than that, just check the electrics work.

Also, don't automatically think that the most expensive Saxo will be the best. Look at every one for sale locally before making your mind up.......and don't just buy the first you see, its easy to fall in love on a test drive and then miss a better and possibly cheaper example.

When you find the car you like it is usual to barter a bit. On a car for sale for £1,500.....most sellers will probably accept £1,250 cash (especially if you have it on you!) But at the very least have a friend or family member with you to offer an objective view and keep you sane, especially if you have cash on you. Never appear to be too excited or giggly, if the seller thinks he is getting a sure sale it will affect your bartering.

A few umms and arrs, a couple of scratches/dints pointed out, kerbed alloys or low treaded tyres or a dirty interior are all bargaining points.

If you agree on a price you both need to keep handwritten receipts stating that you have bought the vehicle (numberplate) and the price, names, contact numbers and signatures. The seller needs to sign that they have received payment in full.

If you are paying part cash and part bank transfer or with a cash balance the next day, you need a receipt for this as well as the log book. Most sellers will not let their car go without full payment received......but if you have left cash, you should be entitled to take the log book.

I didn't intend to do such a long post! I hate buying and selling cars........

Thanks!! Thats a great reply! Exactly what I needed!!

Welcome, and best of luck.....

[poshboy]

DO A HPI CHECK! sometimes a manx reg won't come up so use the chassis number, there a write off ones going round there and if the car has finance on it you are not the owner and they can reposses the vehicle from you, a reciept will not stop this.

[jamie]

Agreed, I'd certainly do a HPI check on an expensive vehicle.

But I wouldn't bother on a Saxo worth only several hundreds of pounds......